2023 In Review 年度总结

2023, what a year it's been.

Left SF, which I begrudgingly called home for 10 years. Lived in Hawaii and Vancouver. Moved to London. Got a divorce. Suffered heartbreak, twice. Stayed afloat, buoyed by the love and support of family and friends. Sent my baby brother off to college. Attended several beautiful weddings of some of my dearest friends. Ran to stay sane -- 1,200km with a 7 minute half marathon PR. Started doing Pilates. Started using retinol. Started cooking on induction (still hate it, at least give me knobs).

Learnings & Changes

Sleep - In late 2022, I read Matthew Walker’s “Why We Sleep”, but 2023 was when I really started incorporating a lot of the learnings into my own sleep routine. I also got an Oura ring to better track my sleep.

  • Temperature: For better sleep, our internal body temperature needs to cool down. This is actually why, counterintuitively, a hot bath or shower helps us sleep better. By warming our body surface temperature, our core temperature actually cools down in response. This year, I switched from a "cold weather” goose down comforter to an “all seasons” silk comforter (which is also deliciously weighted). When possible to regulate room temperature, I try to keep it at 65-68F.

  • Light + Sound: No surprise, but we achieve better sleep quality in darkness and quietness. With how much I traveled this year, this is hard to achieve consistently in new hotel rooms (not me unplugging every digital alarm clock). I now carry an eye mask and ear plugs everywhere I go and use them every night. This also helps when sharing a bed or room with others.

  • Caffeine: Half time of caffeine in the body is ~5 hours. I try to avoid coffee, tea, anything caffeinated after lunch.

  • Eating: Going to bed with a full stomach may feel really good, but makes for poor sleep as your digestive system is still working hard to process what you’ve just put in your body. I now try to stop eating 3-4 hours before bed.

  • Alcohol: To quote Dr Peter Attia "I’m in the camp that believes that there’s absolutely no benefit to alcohol at any dose, but I have anywhere from 0-8 drinks a week", I also really like a good drink once in a while, but any time I have more than one drink a night, my sleep quality definitely suffers. Somewhat surprisingly, I drank a lot less frequently and in volume this year and will continue to try to have no more than 2 drinks a night when I do.

Running easy - Absolutely game-changing for my running game this year was learning about aerobic vs anaerobic metabolism, zone 2 training and doing a lactate test. Basically, run slower to get faster. What this meant for me in 2023 is starting to really enjoy running on a consistent basis, because the run itself becomes a meditative time for myself and I’m not fatiguing myself to the point of requiring recovery days. Now, if I take more than a day off running, my whole body feels antsy. If you’re interested, keep reading for details of the science, which I wrote below to help myself summarize my learnings.

There are 2 ways for the body to produce energy, with oxygen (aerobic) or without (anaerobic). Aerobic metabolism is the process by which fats and carbs are converted into usable energy in the form of ATP, requiring oxygen. While efficient and produces a lot of energy output, this process is slow. During really intense activity sustained for a short period of time, in the absence of enough oxygen, the body uses anaerobic metabolism to generate energy for immediate use from carbs. Anaerobic metabolism is when our body fatigues and thus this level of exercise is not sustainable.

At low intensity in the aerobic zone, the body is able to use primarily fat via fatty acid oxidation vs carbs (via glycolysis). The aerobic threshold (AT) is thus when the production of energy starts to become dominated by anaerobic glycolysis of carbs rather than the oxidation of fats. To become a faster (endurance) runner, I want to push up my AT, making my body more efficient at transporting and using oxygen (and fat) for energy before tapping into the anaerobic system (which uses glycogen).

The way to efficiently do this is to spend more time training well within the aerobic threshold in “zone 2” (out of a 5 zone system). Training in zone 2 pushes up AT without requiring long periods of recovery. So how do you know what your zone 2 is? Most articles out there use heart rate (HR), but that’s actually just a proxy. The actual measurement of aerobic threshold is when blood lactate begins to rise above the normal resting level of 2mmol/L since lactic acid accumulates through anaerobic glycolysis. In July, I did a blood lactate test (aka getting my fingers pricked after running progressively faster intervals on a treadmill….super fun) and so have a pretty good idea what my personal zone 2 is (anywhere from 9:00 - 11:00 / mile). I don’t recommend using HR to determine your zone 2 (see this run where O and I held a conversation for the entire time, my HR was in the 150-160 range while his never went above 125). Instead, try the “conversation test”. Can you speak in full sentences and hold a conversation, albeit perhaps laboriously, while maintaining this intensity? Here is a video from Dr Peter Attia on what zone 2 feels / sounds like.

Next year, I will continue to keep 80% of my weekly milesage in zone 2 to improve my AT (reducing the rate at which lactate is produced), but will also focus on anaerobic adaptations (improving my body’s ability to remove that lactate).

Sources: 1, 2

Self care - This year, I continued in my n-th year of daily sunscreen use (yes, that’s right, every day even in the God forsaken places like London and Vancouver in wintertime). I also far more consistently did a nightly skincare routine of proper washing, actives (retinol or AHA/BHA), and layered hydration. My skin has never looked better. Even the stubborn bumps on my chin (sebaceous filaments) have smoothed out quite a bit towards the end of the year. Two other additions to my routine include Cocofloss (TY, JC!) and GrandeLASH serum (TY, JP!).

Companionship - This was a year of painful loss, but also new learnings. My time spent with JT and JC (what is with the J’s in my life?!) have shown me what good can feel like. I spent a lot of time on my own, which I quite enjoy and think I am quite “good” at, but also admitted to myself my need and appreciation for quality companionship whether in the form of a partner, housemates or travel buddy.

  • Good banter - I will never not live for good banter.

  • Bearing witness - To be seen, known, understood by a 知己 (and the same in return) will always be the bedrock upon which I build relationships and close friendships

  • Energy - R and I frequently joked about “activation energy” in a throwback to high school chem. It took spending (significant amounts of) time with different people to realize how draining it was to always be the one supplying said energy, drawing your partner out to do things. Having synergistic, complementary energy levels is so important to a relationship. To respect each other’s necessary downtimes, but to also be able to push and pull a little to help the other get out of a rut.

  • Giving and receiving - I love to take care of people. To feel taken care of was different and very pleasant. I 100% think the ideal is to be in a virtuous cycle of giving and appreciation with another giver.

  • Rhythm and pace - JC and I spent 6 weeks on the road together and part of what made it so easy was that we operated with very similar “tempo”. Getting out the door in the morning. Winding down at night. Even with a destination, we didn’t mind meandering, making detours, taking our time.

Favourite items

Kitchen Essentials - Moving twice this year has helped me really figure out what my kitchen must-haves are. A lot of these were the first things I packed in the luggage I took to Vancouver, and then again to London. Others were the first thing I (re)purchased upon arriving.

  • Maestro Wu artillery steel cleaver - I carried my entire knife collection with me in a knife roll, but if I had to choose one, a small Chinese cleaver it is.

  • Kuhn Rikon peeler

  • Muji silicone spoon & spatula

  • 8-inch non-stick frying pan

  • Saucepot

  • Cast iron french oven

  • Dinnerware and cutlery I love to eat out of and with (Royal Copenhagen, Cutipol, Muji chopsticks)

  • Hot water kettle or dispenser

  • Baking basics (not that essential, but this is what I’d get to rebuild my baking arsenal)

    • Kitchen scale

    • Measuring cups and spoons

    • Mixing spatula (the above Muji one works great)

    • Hand mixer

    • Parchment paper

Fashion - Having lived out of a “suitcase” (or 3) for more than half of the year, these were my wardrobe workhorses

  • Gianvito Rossi Chelsea Boots, black - to use my friend’s phrase “哇，他们居然有这么实用的鞋子??” Stomped around Europe for 6 weeks wearing these almost exclusively. Narrow slim ankle is super flattering to wear with skirts or pants (tucked in or over).

  • Uniqlo Ribbed Bra Tanks and Cropped Tees - best budget finds of the year. Really hope they bring these back next summer

  • Liwan LY Shirt, white - a white button up shirt with a rebel collar made by a Lebanese designer based in Paris

  • 7115 Painter Trousers, oatmeal linen - my summer pant of choice, had them tailored in Taipei last year to take in the hips a bit. Breezy and cool, but smart

  • Homme Plisse Pants, black - another workhorse on said Europe trip. Comfortable, easy to style, easy to take care of.

  • Celine Teen Triomphe, black - the one luxury handbag I’d repurchase in a heartbeat (maybe in lizard instead). Can elevate a casual outfit or be worn with something dressier. The size is perfect for wearing in both summer and winter (over or under coats), fits a Kindle and all the essentials (phone, keys, card case, sunglasses, tissues)

  • Loewe Reversible Belt - so versatile and easy

  • Eric Bompard Long Coat, navy - purchased in Paris after thinking about it for an entire year. To use JC’s words, a rare coat that looks even better buttoned than open. It’s double-sided wool and cashmere, heavy, warm…like a cocoon in which to armour myself from the elements.

Favourite Books

Favourite Media (shows, movies, podcasts)

  • 去有風的地方

  • 装腔启示录

  • 一念关山

  • 爱情而已

  • 少年歌行 - 2022, but I watched it this year

  • Past Lives

  • 流浪地球 2 Wandering Earth II

  • 封神 Creation of the Gods

  • Arthur C Brooks on Tim Ferris's podcast

  • Brene Brown on Tim Ferris’s podcast

Places Visited

  • North America: SF Bay Area, LA, Hawaii, Portland, Seattle, Vegas, Phoenix, Houston, Austin, New York, Los Cabos, Vancouver

  • Europe: London, Bruge, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Paris, Milan, Barcelona, Spanish Basque Country, Lisbon

  • Asia: Singapore, Ko Lanta in Thailand

Bifana Sandwiches

Ingredients

  • Thinly sliced pork loin (eg hotpot meat)

  • Dry white wine (I used sauvignon blanc)

  • Garlic - minced, split

  • Bay leaves

  • Olive oil

  • Paprika

  • Cayenne

  • Light beer (I used Sapporo)

  • Fish sauce

  • Salt

  • Piri-piri oil

  • Crusty bread (eg baguette, dutch crunch, rustic rolls)

  • Butter, optional

Instructions

  1. Marinade the pork with salt, half of the minced garlic, bay leaf and dry white wine for at least 1 hour. If marinading for longer than a few hours, do not salt too generously as the pork slices are thin.

  2. After marinading, drain the liquid from the meat and remove bay leaves. Add a generous sprinkling of corn or potato starch. Massage to coat evenly. Then drizzle with oil and coat evenly again. This helps lock in moisture to keep the meat moist.

  3. In a large skillet or sauce pan on low heat, heat olive oil, paprika, cayenne, bay leaf and remaining minced garlic until fragrant. Turn heat on high, add in meat and and cook.

  4. With heat on high, add in 1/2 cup white wine and enough beer to cover the meat. Let the alcohol fully evaporate.

  5. Then add fish sauce and salt, and piri piri oil. Let simmer until the meat is tender. If simmering liquid is not very thick, create a starch water mixture and add, boil with lid off until the sauce thickened.

  6. Cut sandwich bread in half, butter if desired, and toast until crispy and crunchy.

  7. Sandwich stewed pork between the bread, add more piri-piri oil if desired, and serve.

Taiwan Recs

My Recs | Places I Want to Try

Taipei 台北

coffee / cafes / dessert

  • ASW Tea House 沃森

  • Espresso-based

    • Simple Kaffa

    • Fika Fika - my favourite flat white I had in Taipei

  • 春秋書店 Chun Qiu Bookstore - 4 level bookstore with cafe and lots of comfortable seating. No time limit either!

Bars

  • Bitter Burro

  • 小南城外 City Bar North

  • Antique 1900

Restaurants / Night Markets

  • 麻油雞 Sesame Oil Chicken

    • 阿圖

    • 阿南麻油雞 - at 南機場夜市 Nanjichang

    • 草山風情藥膳餐廳 (陽明山)

  • 牛肉面 Beef Noodle Soup

    • Azie Grand Cafe at Regent Taipei

    • 牛肉麵．雞湯

    • 林家牛肉面

    • 大師兄銷魂麵舖 - dry noodles

  • 鲁肉饭 Pork Ragu over Rice

    • 三元號魯肉飯

  • 胡椒餅 Black Pepper Pork Buns

    • 福州世祖胡椒饼

    • 李文斌胡椒饼 - stand near 南京复兴站 Nanjing Fuxing MRT station. Heavy on the green onions.

  • 寿司 Sushi

    • 旨乐 - Nigiri focused. Really great 800NTD lunch special.

  • Fancy

    • MUME

    • Ephernite

Hotels

  • Grand View Resort 麗禧溫泉酒店 (北投)

Tiramisu

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Your choice of classic (coffee chocolate flavour), matcha green tea or oolong tea. I imagine you could easily adapt the recipe for other kinds of tea flavors as well (e.g., hojicha, black tea)

Ingredients

Cream Layer

  • 8 oz mascarpone cream, room temperature

  • 3 large egg yolks

  • 1/3 cup granulated sugar, separated

  • 1 cup heavy cream, fridge cold

  • 1 tbsp vanilla extract or 1/2 vanilla bean pod, split

  • 1-2 tbsp madeira or marsala or rum

Assembly

  • 24 ladyfingers - 1 package of Forno Bonomi Savoiardi or otherwise very dry crispy ladyfingers

  • Soak - 1-2 tbsp madeira or marsala or rum added to the following:

    • Classic - 1 cup espresso (or otherwise very strongly brewed coffee)

    • Matcha - 3 tbsp matcha powder dissolved in 1 cup hot water

    • Oolong - 1 cup strongly brewed oolong tea + 1 tbsp oolong powder

  • Topping

    • Classic -

      • Cocoa powder

      • Bittersweet chocolate, shaved (optional)

    • Matcha - matcha powder

    • Oolong - oolong powder

Instructions

Start at least one, better if two, days before serving.

  1. Bring water to a boil in a pot then remove from heat. Using a double boiler method, whisk your egg yolks with about half of the granulated sugar until pale yellow and very fluffy. Make sure the heat does not scramble your eggs. Remove from heat and fold in mascarpone cheese into the eggs in 2-3 go’s. Mascarpone cheese at room temperature should be very soft and workable

  2. In a separate bowl, whisk your whipping cream with the remaining sugar, vanilla extract until it reaches soft peaks. Mix in the madeira / marsala / rum.

  3. Take 1/3 of the whipped cream and mix it into your mascarpone mixture. Mix fully to fluff up the texture of the mascarpone mixture. This step is to try and make the texture of the two mixtures more similar so they combine easier without deflating the whipped cream. Combine both by gently folding.

  4. Combine 1-2 tbsp of madeira / marsala / rum with the appropriate soak.

  5. In a 8x8 square pan (or something of similar size, assemble your tiramisu. Take one ladyfinger and dip it into the soak, spending 2-3 seconds on each side. Place the dipped ladyfinger in your serving container and repeat until you have covered the entire container. Pour half of the mascarpone mixture into the container and smooth into an even layer with a spatula. Repeat with another layer of the dipped ladyfingers and then the remaining mascarpone mixture.

  6. Wrap in plastic wrap and press the wrap to touch the surface of the top mascarpone mixture. Let it chill in the fridge for at least a day, if not two.

  7. Just before serving, remove plastic wrap and dust the top with the appropriate topping for your flavor.

References

Travel to + Quarantine in Taiwan

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In this new age of (post-?) COVID travel, border entry restrictions and quarantine policies change very quickly. See here for the latest border control information on who can enter Taiwan. See here for the latest quarantine policies.

Overview of My Experience

I took a flight that landed on Sept 22 in Taipei from the US. As such, the COVID-related requirements were:

Pre-Departure

  • Pre-departure PCR taken no more than 3 business days before departure

  • Register with the “quarantine system for entry” no more than 48 hours prior to departure

  • Have booked a quarantine hotel for 15 nights

On Arrival

  • Register for a local Taiwanese SIM card (to use for tracking in the quarantine system)

  • Take saliva sample for PCR test at airport

  • Take quarantine vehicles to their quarantine location instead of driving their own vehicles

  • Quarantine for 15 nights

Pre-Departure

Tips

  • Instead of passing your smartphone back and forth, print all the documents out (maybe 2 copies just in case) so that it’s easy to pass to the people who review your documents, especially since many of these docs (test results, quarantine hotel registration) are not mobile friendly

    • Once you’ve collected all your documents, maybe also download them to your phone locally and send them to yourself in one email so that it’s easy to find just in case.

  • Flight:

    • If your flight arrives in Taipei in the morning, the hotel will likely charge you an extra night for early arrival. If you have the choice, see if you can land after 1PM (so that you arrive at the hotel after 3PM-ish) to save some money and spend less time in quarantine.

    • This goes without saying, but the closer you are to the front of the plane, the less you’ll have to wait in line for everything. You feel the impact of this way more during COVID travel when every step of the way requires many document checks.

  • Quarantine System for Entry - prior to departure, if you don’t have a local Taiwanese SIM card, you can enter in your phone number back home. I used my Google Fi number so I was able to roam and receive a link to complete the form (register a local SIM) when I landed. I’m not sure what happens if you don’t roam?

Quarantine Hotel

If you’re coming from a list of “key high risk countries”, you’ll be sent to a group quarantine facility and you won’t have a choice of where you’re going to serve your quarantine. If not, you get to choose your own quarantine hotel.

Some resources:

  • Taipei City Govt list of quarantine hotels

  • Taipei City Govt quarantine hotel search tool - with filters for certain key features like location, carpet vs hardwood, windows and balconies, etc.

  • Mr Host

Supposedly, some of these resources show availability, but I encourage you to always contact the hotel directly via email and confirm your room type and dates.

Considerations:

  • Most hotels allow for food delivery and eCommerce orders, as long as you pay in full online with a credit card. However, not all hotels are willing to deliver things immediately 24/7. Of the hotels I reached out to, one offered 24/7 delivery and the other had fixed times (including 1AM and 4AM) for delivery.

  • Location - you’d think the location doesn’t really matter since you’re stuck inside anyways, but it does impact the kind of food delivery and noise pollution you get in your room. If you are likely to be jetlagged or working US hours while quarantine-ing, you may want to stay near an area with plenty of late-night / early-morning food options. You can enter in the address of the hotel in the Ubereats or Foodpanda apps to see what kind of options you have.

  • Windows - Will the room have a window? Will you be able to open the window? What is the view like? You’ll likely have to pay premium for each of these features, so judge how important they are to you.

Upon Arrival

  • First things first, get a local SIM card and complete your “quarantine system” registration. Once you obtain the form that has a green bar, show it to someone and they’ll direct you to the next step. There are signages with QR codes and instructions explaining everything once you get off the plane and people are really helpful

  • Next, someone checks your quarantine hotel documents and prepares stickers for COVID test sample collection later.

  • Exchange some local currency, go through immigration, get your luggage

  • Upon exit, they will give you a rapid test to take on day 10 and direct you through to collect saliva samples for a PCR test.

  • After the PCR test, you line up for a quarantine taxi, fill out some contact tracing forms, get sprayed down and you’re off on your way!

Quarantine

I am currently serving my quarantine at Suz & Catorze in Wanhua District, near Ximending (a commercial district with lots of good food). All I can say is that it has been so so worth the splurge. My room has floor-to-ceiling (openable) windows with views of Tamsui River. The people here (communicating mostly via LINE) have been so nice and thoughtful. The food, included in the room rate, have on average been very tasty. It frankly feels as if I’m here on a resort retreat (we’ll see if I change my mind by the end of this). If I had to nit-pick, there are two things that I wish were better: 1) more places to hang towels / dry laundry…2) the view of the river also means the windows face a highway so it gets quite loud if the windows are open during the day. Nothing “improve” here, really, especially since soundproofing is excellent once the windows are shut.

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